30" Sink Base - Momplex Vanilla Kitchen

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How to build a sink base cabinet - free plans from Ana-White.com. Part of the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen Plans.Author Notes: 
Hi everyone!
We are almost through sharing all the base cabinet plans for the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen!

Just in case you missed it, we shared project plans to DIY:
- 12" base cabinet plan
- 21" base cabinet plan
- 42" blind corner base cabinet plan
- 36" pie cut lazy susan corner base cabinet
And today, we are sharing probably the most important cabinet plan of all - the sink base!

Sink bases usually come in 36" and 30" widths to accommodate standard sized sinks. We'd have loved to put a big sink in for Mom, but with the kitchen shrinking due to a wider hallway, we just didn't have the space.

But Mom's just one person, so the smaller sink does what it needs to for her.
NOTE: We are planning a 30" apron sink for the other Momplex unit - so stay tuned for that if you are looking for a small footprint sink base cabinet, but a larger sink.

But you can still fit a double sink in a 30" base - although I don't recommend that faucet - a gooseneck would be much better (live and learn and fight the urge to replace it).
Check out the plans following for the 30" sink base!
Happy Building!
XO Ana
PS - If you are building kitchen cabinets, PLEASE take a second to read through our base cabinet building post.
PSS - We will also share plans for other base cabinets that are not in the Momplex Vanilla kitchen that are standard sized.
Shopping List: 
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - we used cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails
edge banding for shelves
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Table Sawor Circular Saw with Kreg Rip Cut
General Instructions: 
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above.
Cut List: 
CARCASS
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 34-1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/4" x 28" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 28" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3-1/2" (can vary) x 28" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 29-1/2" (back)
FACE FRAME
3 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 30"
1 - 1x2 @ 21"
SHELVES
3/4" plywood @ 22" x 27-3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins/edge banding)
DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 29-1/2" (drawer face)
2 - 22-1/2" x 14-1/2" (door)
Step 1: 
Start with the SAME side panels that you use on all of the base cabinets. But remember that the side panels should be made up in mirror - meaning you will place 3/4" pocket holes on outsides (for attaching face frames in later steps) and shelf pin holes (for adjustable shelves) on insides, with the toekick at the bottom front.
Step 2 Instructions: 
Attach the two bottom supports to the side panels, using the 5" wide strips of plywood. These guys will get covered up with toekick material or hidden under cabinet, so don't worry about using cheaper plywood or placing pocket holes hidden.
Remember to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching bottom shelf, about every 6-8 inches.
Step 3 Instructions: 
Next, add your bottom shelf. Attach bottom shelf to the sides with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, and attach bottom supports to the bottom shelf.
Step 4 Instructions: 
Top supports are attached as shown. You may wish to use a smaller board at the top front support depending on your sink type/size - or when you cut out for your sink, just plan on cutting through that top support.
You could also just leave out the top front support, but you will need to be extra careful when attach the face frame in later steps to make sure the sides are still 28" appart.
Step 5 Instructions: 
We cut our backs short to 32" just to conserve plywood. The backs aren't necessarily needed for support - just to keep your cabinets clean and finished inside. We glued and nailed on with 3/4" finish nails.
NOTE: Because this is the sink base, you may wish to leave plywood off for plumbing access.
Step 6 Instructions: 
Build the face frame seperately, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then attach to front of cabinet through the predrilled pocket holes on sides and top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom won't have enough room to fit a drill in, so we nailed and glued along the bottom.
Step 7 Instructions: 
We used full overlay doors (purchased from Cabinet Now) in the above sizes. When cabinets are assembled, this leaves a 1/2" reveal of face frame between all doors and drawers. For these door sizes you will need 1-1/4" Concealed Euro Hinges, 2 per door.
For the false drawer front on the sink, simply nail and glue in place from back.
Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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