Wall Corner Pie Cut Kitchen Cabinet


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Free plans to build a wall cabinet pie cut corner with double folding doors. This style gives better access to the corner countertop space and is easier to build than the angled door cabinet. Free plans from Ana-White.com

Author Notes:
I promised you I'd get you a corner wall cabinet that didn't require a table saw that cuts rip bevel cuts. But even if you can do rip bevel cuts, you may love this pie cut corner wall cabinet more than the angled front one because it gives you easier access to the countertop area below (yahoo for tiny kitchens with limited countertop space) and the shelves are at most 11 3/4" deep, so stuff doesn't get lost in the back (maybe it's my short arms, but seriously, it's scary what I find when I clean out my super deep base corner cabinet!). And by stuff I of course mean questionably dated noodles and gadgets that looked like pure miracle makers in the packaging or on the tv infomercial ... to used once and stored forever. You know what I'm talking about!
Check out the plans below - you'll see this one's pretty easy to make!!! Corner, conquered!
PS - This wall corner pie cut cabinet is designed to work with this wall cabinet. To keep the cabinet depths matching, it's important that you work with plans that use the same style and plywood depth rips. For this cabinet, it's full face frame, 11 3/4" ripped plywood with 1/4" plywood on backs.
PSS - You might also want to check out this wall corner cabinet for the angled front door.
Shopping List: 
1 sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into 1 strip 22 3/4" wide x 8 feet long AND 1 strip 11 3/4" wide x 8 feet long (might as well rip the remaining strip 11 3/4" wide and use it for more wall cabinets)
1/2 sheet 1/4" plywood for backs
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long in matching hardwood species
1 - 1x3 @ 30" in matching hardwood species
2 - 1 1/4" overlay face frame concealed euro style hinges*
2 - pie cut hinges for attaching doors together*
Screws for hanging cabinet wall and attaching face frames to neighboring cabinets
Doors or materials to make doors as shown in plan
*see comments
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Level
General Instructions: 
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above. Designed to work with 11 3/4" width ripped cabinets.
Cut List: 
4 - 3/4" plywood 22 3/4" x 22 3/4" (cut these from the ripped strip 22 3/4" wide)
2 - 3/4" plywood 11 3/4" x 30" (cut these from the ripped strip 11 3/4" wide)
1 - 1x3 @ 30"
2 - 1x2 @ 21" (longest point measurement, one end is cut to 45 degree bevel - for heavier loads, consider cutting four more for placement under all fixed shelves)
2 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 22" (backs)
FACE FRAME
2 - 1x2 @ 30"
2 - 1x2 @ 10 1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 9 3/4"
Step 1: 
First cut all of your shelves as shown in diagram.
Step 2 Instructions: 
Next, drill pocket holes in all shelves and sides as shown in diagram, and then attach shelves to the sides.
Step 3 Instructions: 
Attach back 1x3 to the back keeping shelves level. Countersink screws and use glue.
Step 4 Instructions: 
These guys are for hanging the cabinet later on. For heavier loads, I suggest more braces under the remaining fixed shelves. Attach with glue and screws - try 3/4" pocket holes on back sides.
Step 5 Instructions: 
Attach 1/4" plywood to back with glue and finish nails.
Step 6 Instructions: 
Build your face frame separately with hidden 3/4" pocket holes on back side. Then attach to carcass using the predrilled pocket holes from step 2.
Step 7 Instructions: 
For standard full overlay doors with 1/2" reveal between doors/drawers, door size is as shown above. When you hang the doors, adjust so 1/4" of the face frame is revealed on the ends of the face frame, 1/2" on tops and bottoms.
Step 8 Instructions: 
For my kitchen cabinet, these hinges were used to hinge two doors together.
Step 9 Instructions: 
And these concealed hinges, although a 1 1/4" overlay face frame euro concealed hinge would do the trick too.
Step 10 Instructions: 
And here's my corner base cabinet, just for reference.
Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Kitchen Plans: 
Room: 




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